I’ve wanted to try couching on my Bernina 790+ and our theater recently (March 2024) produced Legally Blonde. That majorette jacket in the law school application scene was the perfect opportunity to give it a try!
Our talented Elle is tiny but mighty, so the first step was getting a good fit on her jacket. We trialed two versions before our third and final fit. This step was very important because the couching has to fit in the space available. We wanted a more tailored look to the jacket, but she still needed room for some big dance moves. We also tailored the Amazon dance shorts for a better fit.
I scoured the internet, soaking up all the design ideas I could find. I wanted something that was a continuous line, no sharp turns or double backs, tapered from shoulder to waist, and fit within my embroidery hoop. When I finally settled on a shape, I brought it into the Bernina DesignerPlus Software and digitized a design, editing each node to smooth the curves and create the look I envisioned. I sewed a trial onto scrap fabric, made a few changes, then took the plunge. I love it!
The sleeves also had special details. Her dance had a lot of bold, sharp arm movements and I wanted to work with that idea. Step 1 – couch a continuous line flourish onto the sleeve. Step 2 – add intricate free standing lace embroidery designs from Sonia Showalter Designs. Step 3 – repeat for sleeve two. Step 4 – embellish with crystal rhinestones.
To add that extra crispness to the jacket, I couched a triple line of cording along the jacket seams, sleeve edge and collar. Bernina’s #22 cording fit helped immensely. I cut three lengths of La Espiga #18 fine white cording, layered it into the foot with the ‘door open’, then closed the ‘door’ to hold the cords in place. Then it was a simple slow and steady triple zig zag stitch along the seam line. Isn’t it gorgeous?
Underneath all the pretty, there’s helpful structure happening. The jacket is interlined with organza and there is a light, soft chest pad to give the jacket body. After we added these elements, and the sleeves, we sewed in the silky lining. We chose a drape-y satin so the jacket could easily slip on and off for those quick changes. We also made matching shoulder pads just right for our petite Elle.
After the jacket was almost complete, we decided we wanted to cinch the waist tighter. Being community theater though, the next time we use the jacket it may need to be bigger. I was also concerned that when the actress started dancing in the jacket, she would decide it was too tight. (Dance costumes are often made from knit fabrics for more give, but this jacket is made from traditional woven fabrics, which do not give as easily for big dance moves.) So I created an adjustable waist cinch with button-hole elastic and buttons and sewed that inside the jacket.
One of the final steps was adding frog closures to the front edges of the jacket. We used a ruler to get accurate placement on both sides of the jacket front. ACTUALLY the jacket closed with snaps and magnets – again to help with those quick changes. And then, to give Elle that extra razzle dazzle, we stoned with clear rhinestones around the edge of the frog, pink rhinestones inside the frog loops, added a large crystal button where the knot belongs, and added one pink rhinestone to the top of each crystal button. So very Elle Woods!
We sewed crystal epaulettes onto matching pink felt, then attached these to the shoulders. Around the jacket and collar edges, we hand stitched 4mm crystal cup chain.
Chloe meticulously stoned the jacket with clear and pink crystals. I have no idea how much we used, but Elle Woods SHONE when she danced on stage under the bright lights. I wish you could have seen it! The choreography was high-energy and sharp and the whole effect was FIRE!
This is the concept mock-up we created in Procreate for the director and lead costumer. We got pretty close to this!
